Stora Sjöfallet National Park

No other National Park in Sweden has been so exposed as the National Park of Stora Sjöfallet, Stuor Muorkke in Samí. Stora Sjöfallet was founded in 1909 as one of the first National Parks in Sweden and is today part of the Laponia World Heritage Site. Shortly after the foundation of Stora Sjöfallets National Park its rights were taken away so that the mighty waters in the National Park could support Sweden with electricity in times of war. Through the 20^th century several interventions in the nature of Stora Sjöfallet National Park took place. Today it reminds us of the importance of protected nature.

Ancient forests and high peaks

On the road heading west, called Vägen Västerut in Swedish, lies a breathtaking mountain landscape  – Stora Sjöfallets National Park. Untouched old-growth forest lines the road around the big Lule river, which used to be a system of smaller lakes. The closer you get to the Norwegian border, the higher the mountain peaks rise. The peaks of Sarek National Park stretch out in a row south of the waters. To the north you can find the Kungsleden trail and the mountains of Kebnekaise.

The Ahkka massif, at 2015 meters above sea level, is the highest point in Stora Sjöfallet National Park. But the most magnificent sight, the waterfall that gave the National Park its name – Stora Sjöfallet, Stuor Muorkkegårttje in Sami – has fallen silent forever.

A dramatic history

The history of the waterfall is a sad part of Sweden’s history. At the end of the 19th century, Stora Sjöfallet was one of Europe’s largest waterfalls. It was a big tourist attraction and even called the ‘Niagara of the North’. The waterfall and the surrounding nature were considered so important that Stora Sjöfallet National Park was established in 1909. This was actually one of the very first National Parks to be established in Sweden and also in Europe. But the rights of the National Park began to be restricted just ten years later.

World War I begins

Europe was ravaged by World War I, and Sweden was affected by the economic crisis. There was a shortage of food and fuel, the demand for electricity increased in the mine in the ore fields. As a result, the protection in the National Park had to give way when the parliament in 1919 voted in favor of building a large dam at Suorva. The lake system was taken out of the National Park and exploited. It was turned into one large body of water, which is what we today know as Akkajaure, the big reservoir.

Many of those who had settlements around the lakes saw their residential areas disappear under water during the hydropower expansion.

The nature in the area was permanently damaged, and even the Sami people in the region paid a high price. Many of those who had settlements around the lakes saw their residential areas disappear under water during the hydropower expansion. In lakes where fishing had once taken place, wood now drifted around and tore apart the nets, wood that came from trees that were also submerged.

The four stages

The constructions took place in four stages between 1920 and 1972, which caused the dam levels to be raised four times. The construction of the large power dam, Suorvadammen, began in 1920. Since the road to the west, Vägen Västerut, did not exist at that time, all transportation was done by boat, barge, horse, and sled. During World War II, stage three was initiated. The war once again caused an increased need for domestic electricity production. When stage four was about to begin in the 1960s, the road and the power station in Vietas were built. The magnificent waterfall was reduced to a fraction of what it had been, and even today the water is directed through turbines underground. The part of Stora Sjöfallet National Park that was exploited and became an industrial zone still significantly affects the local people in the area.

The magnificent waterfall was reduced to a fraction of what it had been, and even today the water is directed through turbines underground.

Ripples on the water

The fate of the Stora Sjöfallet waterfall literally created ripples on the water and contributed to the establishment of Padjelanta National Park. It was not long after the exploitation of Stora Sjöfallet National Park before the large mountain lakes in Padjelanta began to be of interest for hydroelectric power exploitation. Fortunately, the environmental movement had awakened and was able to stop the expansion of hydroelectric power in the area of Padjelanta during the 1960s. Padjelanta National Park was established in 1962 and has been part of the Laponia World Heritage Site since 1996.

Discover Stora Sjöfallets National Park

Apart from its tragic history, the area attracts tourists both on skis and on foot. Most of it is relatively accessible, as Vägen Västerut goes through the National Park. One of the more popular trails in the area leads along paths and boardwalks out to the waterfall. Marshes and cliffs line the way to the beautiful waterfall, which is worth seeing even though it is only a fraction of what it once was. In the area lies the STF Vakkotavare mountain hut where the Kungsleden trail passes, and also the mountain village Ritsem where hiking and snowmobile trails go by.

The magnificent Ahkka massif  is inviting to alpine tours both summer and wintertime. Naturum Laponia is also beautifully located on a peninsula. It offers stories, art and handicraft from the area together with a small café. Today, Stora Sjöfallet National Park is a place where powerful nature and a vibrant Sami culture meet, with quite a story to tell. Perhaps its most meaningful purpose is to inspire us to take a more respectful view on nature and also to come to the understanding of how important it is to be able to protect our nature and cultural values.

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